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6 - 21 May 2018.
Rather wet the first week and again in the Beijing area later. Mostly overcast with rain and showers, though clear and bright in Inner Mongolia. Inland becoming hot. Temperatures ranged from 12°C to 34°C. Haze and pollution throughout the industrialised eastern seaboard.
Nanhui, Dongtai Mudflats, Rudong, Fuzhou Botanical Garden, Minjiang Estuary, Emeifeng National Nature Reserve, Dongzhou National Nature Reserve, Xuanzhong Monastery, Xuanzhong, Bayan Huxu, Xiang Hai National Nature Reserve, Lingshan and Hengshui Lake.

Reed Parrotbill

Saunders's Gull

Waders in the wet (James Eaton)

5 May. Took China Eastern Airlines flight direct from Ching Mai to Shanghai, arriving on time, three hours later, at 19:45. As often in China, customs and immigration formalities were smooth and efficient, although the wait for baggage was over 30 minutes. Overnight at the Airport Hotel, a slightly surreal accommodation with circular beds, decorative cushions, tea/coffee making facilities without the tea/coffee and a totally empty fridge - hardly catering for the international traveller.

6 May. An early start at 05:00, heading out the short distance to Nanhui. Although formerly a short drive, exiting Shanghai Airport now entails a 20 minute loop in the wrong direction merely to be on the correct road - bizarre, and something clearly awry with the road system planning. Here we spent three hours searching for two targets - the stunning Reed Parrotbill and Marsh Grassbird - although only the former found, on account of the cloudy, cool weather not at all conducive to singing grassbirds. Other species observed in passing: Black-tailed Gull, Grey-tailed Tattler, Vinous-throated Parrotbill, Ochre-rumped Bunting, Manchurian Bush Warbler and Chinese Egret. Generally rather quiet though.

A four and half hour drive to Dongtai, through increasingly wet weather. On arrival we found tidal conditions perfect, with extensive mudflats and waders showing, but balanced against truly awful weather with horizontal rain, dark clouds and seemingly little prospect of improvement. A good number of Saunders's Gull were nearby, providing excellent views. Braving the elements we took off across the mudflats. A couple of cold, miserable hours birding in a gale did produce though, with Spoon-billed Sandpiper, Sharp-tailed Sandpiper, Great Knot and thousands of commoner waders. Back at the vehicle, totally drenched, and with meticulous timing, the rain decided to stop, though the stiff wind was still howling, A short walk produced Eurasian Spoonbill, Pied Avocet, Mongolian Gull, Common Tern and Eastern Yellow Wagtail. Left around 17:15 with heavy rain starting, to check into our accommodation in town and a welcome hot shower.

Tristram's Bunting

Quite a haul. Left the area at 12:00 for the three and a half hour drive to Shanghai Airport, from where we took the 18:50 flight to Fuzhou. On arrival, more heavy rain, but at least a pleasant 25°C temperature. Overnight in town.

Vinous-throated Parrotbill

We arrived at 13:00, finding White-faced Plover and, by mid afternoon, a couple of distant Chinese Crested Tern. Many waders present plus breeding Little Tern, Black-faced Spoonbill and Chinese Egret. At 16:00 a couple of local bird photographers arrived, and clearly didn't want us on their beach watching them harassing the local wildlife, so evidently called security, as 20 minutes later we could see Mr. Grumpy and his sidekick making a bee-line for us. Before we were evicted though, we did manage better views of a couple of Chinese Crested Tern passing closer. Return to Fuzhou for the night.

Yellow-bellied Prinia

10 May. Another 05:00 start; something we discovered was attributed to new regulations in China, where bus drivers are not permitted to drive between 02:00 and 05:00. However, given the overcast conditions and poor light we couldn't see anything anyway, so waited till 05:30 for sufficient light, so that if we ran into a pheasant on the road we might actually be able to see it! Initially we headed straight down the mountain to try for Elliot's Pheasant once more, repeating yesterday's scan of road edges, banks, slopes and field edges, but without success, though we recorded both Silver Pheasant and Chinese Bamboo Partridge in the process. By 09:00 retraced our steps to the upper slopes for more general birding, scoring Cabot's Tragopan again, plus Indochinese Yuhina, Black-chinned Yuhina, Huet's Fulvetta and Small Niltava. The remainder of the morning at upper levels and along the only track leading from the accommodation along the ridge. Despite the cloud and showers, a good three hours provided some great sightings including Brown Bush Warbler, White-spectacled Warbler, Cabot's Tragopan and Buffy Laughingthrush. Around 14:30 we birded the road back to lower levels, for another Elliot's Pheasant hunt, resulting in overheated brakes but no pheasant. Along the way we picked up Masked Laughingthrush, Chinese Hwamei and White-browed Shrike-babbler. Returned to the accommodation at dusk in generally deteriorating weather with wind, drizzle and temperatures of 14°C but feeling considerably lower.

11 May. Another morning's shot at Elliot's Pheasant. With cool conditions, fog, and damp vegetation it seemed perfect for pheasants, and this proved to be the case. In two trips down/up the mountain over the next couple of hours we had several Silver Pheasant and at least three Elliot's Pheasant, that were notably skittish. A repeat session on the trail at the pass produced Grey-headed Parrotbill and, finally, good views of White-necklaced Partridge crossing the track. During the afternoon we walked the road a short distance toward the radar station, that was good for warblers, with Kloss's Leaf Warbler, Hartert's Leaf Warbler and Russet Bush Warbler. Late afternoon another pheasant drive to the bottom with Silver Pheasant but little else.

Chinese Hare

Russet Bush Warbler

Yellow-cheeked Tit

Blue-crowned Laughingthrush

This laughingthrush is only viewable for a short period during May, when breeding communally in what remains of a few large old trees near river banks. About 20 birds and six nests at this one site. With impeccable timing the rain started as we arrived, but still didn't dampen our appreciation of this beautiful species. Following lunch, prepared by the family, we moved 45 minutes away for late afternoon birding, in search of Short-tailed Parrotbill and maybe Moustached Laughingthush. Neither found, so had to content ourselves with Eastern Spot-billed Duck, Grey-headed Parrotbill and Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush. Overnight In Wuyuan town.

Green Shrike-babbler

Reeves's Pheasant

Oriental Scops Owl

A pair perched-up on our arrival made this one of the easiest species of the trip. Back to Wangkou for a last-ditch attempt for Moustached Laughingthrush, but only Dusky Fulvetta and a surprising Green Shrike-babbler. From here, a long, near 10 hour drive to Dongzhai, through improving weather, temperatures up to 28°C and our first sight of the sun. Northern Boobook calling around the accommodation at dusk on arrival.

14 May. A veritable lie-in - all 10 minutes of it - and our first breakfast at the accommodation at 05:10. Excellent weather all day with temperatures in the high twenties. A short drive to Dongzhou, followed by a five minute walk to yet another photography setup. And a serious setup indeed with something like 70 available places to photograph across a large clearing. Fortunately today almost no one present - locals preferring photography in the snow. And suddenly, at 06:10, there is was. A male Reeves's Pheasant strutted out from the forest and gave a prolonged display before heading off in the opposite direction. Absolutely stunning, and almost unanimously voted bird of the trip.

The remainder of the morning devoted to a long walk within the reserve, with excellent birding - a couple more Reeves's Pheasant, Fairy Pitta singing from the canopy, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Oriental Scops Owl and finally Brown-chested Jungle Flycatcher, that took best part of two hours to track down and everyone to see. Lunch at the accommodation, then headed into fields south of the reserve, with Crested Ibis, Mandarin Duck, Collared Crow, Russet Sparrow, Grey-capped Greenfinch, Azure-winged Magpie and Grey -headed Lapwing. A second night at the accommodation.

15 May. With time to spare, having found the main specialities, we opted for another look at Reeves's Pheasant. Much the same as yesterday, though as more windy the bird did not display. Some really memorable views of Fairy Pitta to finish, then a short drive to town, where we boarded a high speed train. With top speeds of just over 300 km/h, five hours later we arrived at Taiyuan.

An hour later, late afternoon, we were already at Xuanzhong Monastery, where three Brown Eared Pheasant found. As these birds have been fed daily for the last 20 years by the monks, this has become the most reliable site anywhere. Also Daurian Redstart, Eurasian Nutcracker, Chinese Long-tailed Rosefinch and Pere David's Rock Squirrel. A 30 minute drive to Jiaocheng and overnight in town. A warm day with temperatures over 30°C. The dinner this evening was one of the best of our trip, with finally some spice and zap finding it's way into the food after the generally dull cuisine of eastern China.

16 May. Back to our usual 05:00 start and a return to the monastery by 05:30. Nicely cool early in the day, but temperatures rising to 30°C by 10:00 that killed off bird activity. We started with a walk at mid elevations of the valley leading to temple. Several Beijing Babbler, another Brown Eared Pheasant, Silver-throated Bushtit and Willow Tit. Lunch, at the same restaurant as last night, turned into some kind of banquet with us given VIP treatment in what felt like the presidential suite - excellent food again. Drove to Taiyuan, and with an hour to spare randomly birded a park near the airport. Despite the heat of the day, several migrants - Arctic Warbler, Asian Brown Flycatcher, Taiga Flycatcher and, most surprisingly, a male Brambling. Took the 20:00 China Eastern Airlines fight to Beijing, eventually crashing out at the airport hotel by 23:00.

Coenonympha amaryllis

Pere David's Rock Squirrel

After a noodle lunch which rapidly turned in to a photo session with the restaurant staff - foreigners being such a novelty here - headed out to one of the few patches of remaining grassland with scattered apricot bushes amidst oceans of cultivation. Really a depressing sight to see what must have once been a natural paradise turned into endless agriculture and farms. We spent the whole afternoon, from 13:00 - 18:45, in search of a range of species, recording good numbers of Jankowski's Bunting, Pallas's Reed Bunting, Amur Falcon, Chinese Grey Shrike, Japanese Quail and Asian Short-toed Lark. Fantastic weather, 25°C, slightly cloudy and little wind, in which we probably covered five kilometres in total.

Jankowski's Bunting

Chinese Penduline Tit

Bearded Reedling

A second nest site however contained one adult Oriental Stork preening. At a small wetland within the core area eventually we found a single Red-naped Crane. A fine selection of species seen throughout the morning with Swan Goose, Daurian Partridge, Eurasian Spoonbill, Oriental Pratincole, Common Cuckoo, Daurian Jackdaw, Chinese Penduline Tit, Bearded Reedling and White-cheeked Starling. A very late lunch, during which we thanked our host, then a couple of hours in a local plantation searching for migrants, where we found Yellow-breasted Bunting, Black-faced Bunting, Daurian Starting, Yellow-rumped Flycatcher, Dusky Warbler, Grey-headed Woodpecker, Common Rosefinch, Chinese Penduline Tit and Yellow-browed Warbler. A return, three hour drive, to Ulan Hot and overnight there.

19 May. With our return flight to Beijing not leaving till 08:30 we had the luxury of starting at 06:30 from the hotel, as only 20 minutes to the airport. On time with China United Airlines, then a five hour drive to Lingshan, with poor weather once again welcoming us. Late afternoon we walked the forest trail at the base of the mountain, but little found due to the cold, wet conditions - Eastern Crowned Warbler, Asian Stubtail heard, Chinese Leaf Warbler and Claudia's Leaf Warbler.

Checked out before 12:00 then worked the road below the village for about three kilometres, in cloudy, cold and wet conditions; hardly conducive to singing flycatchers. However, perseverance prevailed, and finally gave us Zappey's Flycatcher together with Coal Tit and Willow Tit. Left 14:00 to drive to Hengshui, arriving 19:30.

21 May. An 05:00 start to, surprise surprise, more rain. A mostly wet, windy morning, with a couple of dry spells, searching this large lake for several specialities. Baer's Pochard a major highlight with at least four seen plus a hybrid. Hybridisation with the easterly spreading Ferruginous Duck must surely now pose a significant threat to this critically endangered species.

Zappey's Flycatcher