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Northern central Thailand: 3 - 7 Aug 2020


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3 - 7 Aug 2020.
Mostly overcast. Some afternoon rain. Temperatures ranged from 23°C to 34°C.
Sakunothayan Arboretum, Nam Nao National Park, Phu Khieo Wildlife Sanctuary and Pha Lak Muean Forest Park.

With Steve Tibbett. This was, effectively, a repeat of our trip three weeks earlier, in search of the rare White Emperor. Although the July time frame is considered the ideal time for this species, we failed to find it on our previous trip, and were rather envious when another visitor photographed the species two days after we'd left.

Although galvanised into a second attempt, the combination of a tropical storm to the east over Vietnam, and a series of monsoonal fronts to the west, meant we were tempting fate a little.

3 Aug. Torrential rain and localised flooding in Chiang Mai overnight was hardly an ideal start, but the weather actually improved as we drove eastward, and by the time we passed Uttaradit the rain had eased. Being keen, as always, to investigate new areas, we broke the journey with a stop at Sakunothayan Arboretum in Phitsanulok province. Entry was free, and after the usual sign-in and temperature checks we were free to walk about. The area has a reasonable waterfall and several wide tracks through lowland forest. It was an improvement on Poi Waterfall that we had tried on our previous trip. The overcast and cool conditions were great for mosquitoes. Over a couple of hours we recorded a number of commoner butterflies, plus the very scarce Siamese Onyx, and a Indochinese Long-nosed Whip Snake was a nice find. So all-in-all a reasonable stop, and probably worth another look at a future date during better weather. Overnight at Lomsak.

4 Aug. Most of the day was spent along the Phu Goom Khao track at Nam Nao. Surprisingly good weather, with a few showers after 12:00. Butterflies were fewer than last month, though still a fair collection, with White Punch, Common Silverline, Siamese Pale Grass Yellow, Dark Blue Glassy Tiger, Abnormal Judy, Striated Angle and Indian Yellow Sailor. Birds included Barred Cuckoo-Dove, Banded Kingfisher, a couple of Great Slaty Woodpecker, Common Hill Myna, Blue Pitta and a single singing Brown Prinia - a species we'd not run into here for some years. We left mid afternoon to drive the remaining couple of hours to Phu Khieo.

5 Aug. All day spent along the entrance road at Phu Khieo. Almost the first bird of the day was a calling Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo not far from the checkpoint. Mostly cloudy in the early part of the day, but with some sun in the early afternoon the butterfly activity was good, though again we failed to find any White Emperor. However, a White-banded Palmfly, although seen briefly, was a good find. Also Three-spot Yamfly, White-banded Hedge Blue, Chestnut Angle, Great Jay and Sergeant Emperor.

6 Aug. Another full day at Phu Khieo. Eared Pitta heard about half way to the headquarters, plus Blue Pitta, a party of Siamese Fireback, Besra, Collared Owlet, Orange-breasted Trogon, Red-headed Trogon, Rufous Woodpecker, Banded Broadbill and Long-tailed Broadbill. Just after midday, a single White Emperor was seen high in the canopy and some terrible photos obtained. Also Witch and White-spot Beak. As luck would have it, just before rain showers started around 15:00, we finally found a feeding White Emperor low down, and some nice photos obtained. Shortly after leaving. the rain turned heavy, continuing into the evening.

7 Aug. An interesting start to the day with a Large-tailed Nightjar singing from the top of a tall tree, in full view, just after sunrise - evidently they like wet weather. We had to wait for staff to arrive at 07:00 to pay and checkout, before starting our longish drive back to Chiang Mai. To break the trip, this time we opted to try Pha Lak Muean Forest Park between Phrae and Lampang, having seen it signposted several times in the past. Given there is not a single mention of this park on the Internet it must be very infrequently visited. Entry was free, and the single staff present was not even interested in our arrival. This small park probably receives no more than a handful of visitors a year, and suffers from a lack of maintenance.

Sakunothayan Falls
Sakunothayan Falls

Indochinese Long-nosed Whip Snake
Indochinese Long-nosed Whip Snake

Brown Prinia
Brown Prinia

Lurcher
Lurcher

White Emperor
White Emperor

Several features and trails were signposted from the entrance, including a 4.5 kilometre trail to a river, but as usual, zero maintenance meant the trail looked as though it had disappeared at least five years ago. Even a short, 50 metre, wooden stairway to a cave was falling apart, overgrown, and too precarious to climb. Very disappointing, and the mosquitoes were terrible. Unfortunately, not a park we'll be in a rush to visit again.

Species List

  Phu Khieo Count   Sakunothayan Count
  Red Junglefowl 2   Shikra 1
  Siamese Fireback 4   Asian Barred Owlet 2
  Large-tailed Nightjar 1   Blue-winged Pitta 2
  Greater Coucal 2   Common Iora 1
  Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo 1   Greater Racket-tailed Drongo 2
  Common Emerald Dove 3   Black-naped Monarch 2
  Crested Serpent Eagle 1   Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush 3
  Besra 1   White-crested Laughingthrush 2
  Collared Owlet 1      
  Orange-breasted Trogon 2   Nam Nao Count
  Red-headed Trogon 1   Barred Cuckoo-Dove 1
  Oriental Pied Hornbill 15   Oriental Pied Hornbill 3
  Banded Kingfisher 1   Oriental Dollarbird 1
  Blue-bearded Bee-eater 1   Greater Yellownape 1
  Great Barbet 1   Great Slaty Woodpecker 2
  Moustached Barbet 2   Blue Pitta 1
  Greater Yellownape 3   Sooty-headed Bulbul 4
  Greater Flameback 1   Puff-throated Bulbul 4
  Rufous Woodpecker 2   Brown Prinia 1
  Vernal Hanging Parrot 2   Rufescent Prinia 4
  Long-tailed Broadbill 2   Puff-throated Babbler 2
  Banded Broadbill 1   Common Hill Myna 2
  Eared Pitta 1      
  Blue Pitta 2      
  Black-naped Monarch 2      
  Blyth's Paradise Flycatcher 1      
  Puff-throated Bulbul 4      
  Grey-eyed Bulbul 2      
  Dark-necked Tailorbird 1      
  Large Scimitar Babbler 2      
  Puff-throated Babbler 3      
  White-crested Laughingthrush 6      
  Common Hill Myna 2      
  Ornate Sumbird 2