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Doi Phu Kha and Khun Nan: 24 - 28 May 2019


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24 - 28 May 2019.
Hot. Variable cloud cover by day, with some seasonal rain at night. Temperatures ranged from 26°C to 45°C.
Wiang Kosai National Park, Doi Phu Kha National Park, Khun Nan National Park and Tat Luang Waterfall.

With Steve Tibbett. Given the success of our previous trip to this area last month, we hoped a follow-up would be just as good. As it turned out, despite good weather, May proved much inferior to April. Our main targets were any of the rarer butterflies known, at least historically, from the Doi Phu Kha area.

White-dot Oakblue
White-dot Oakblue

Green Cochoa
Green Cochoa

Laotian Ace
Laotian Ace

Red-spot Sawtooth
Red-spot Sawtooth

20 May. We left Chiang Mai early and drove two and half hours to Wiang Kosai by 09:15. We chose this park, within a reasonable driving time, as we'd had reasonable success here in the past. Amazingly, the temperature was already 36°C on our arrival. We started with an hour around the waterfall and the short trail up to the higher levels. Very little activity other than some small lycanids, including Large Fourline, and a Silver Royal. Despite today being a public holiday we had the waterfall to ourselves until 11:00, after which the crowds started to arrive, so we headed to the 800 metre Nature Trail that also produced very little, other than a White-dot Oakblue, a male Crimson Sunbird and a Banded Kingfisher heard. Brutally hot at 43°C when we left to drive to Pua, with afternoon temperatures up to 45°C en route.

21 May. Rain most of the night from 21:00, petering out around 07:30. Given that we'd checked the weather the day before, and all appeared dry for a week, where the hell did all that come from? The day was spent on Doi Phu Kha. Strangely, despite all the rain we'd had in Pua it appeared not to have rained in the mountains, which were even drier than the previous month, if that was possible. We checked the usual spots and spent several hours walking the ridge trail, but butterfly activity proved highly disappointing. Birds were better though, with Green Cochoa, Grey Peacock-Pheasant heard, Rusty-naped Pitta heard, Small Niltava and Indochinese Yuhina. Another overnight in Pua.

22 May. Some light overnight rain, which at least fell in the mountains too. At 1,400 metres we finally came across Gram Blue, a widespread, but scarce, species we'd been searching for for years. Back along the ridge trail for another couple of hours, with Rusty-naped Pitta, Silver Pheasant, Rufous-throated Partridge, Lesser Shortwing, Red-billed Scimitar Babbler and Collared Babbler. Mid afternoon we headed down the eastern side of the mountain to Bo Kluea and Sapan Waterfall. Having walked the easier part of the trail to the top of the falls we continued upslope for a further 500 metres, only to find the trail now blocked by a huge tree fall, forcing our return as the slope was too steep to circumnavigate the blockage. Biggest surprise here was a pair of Rufous-throated Fulvetta. Overnight in Bo Kluea.

23 May. Dry overnight. All day spent around around the headquarters area of Khun Nan, mainly on the Nature Trail and the viewpoint track. Today was actually the first time we'd ever been charged to enter the park, usually the staff being so surprised to have any visitors they forget to charge. Really hard work today with hardly a butterfly seen. Along the river we encountered Silver-breasted Broadbill, Common Green Magpie and Slaty-backed Forktail. Being so dead, late afternoon we cut our losses and went for coffee in Bo Kluea.

24 May. With a couple of hours to spare we spent the early part of the day at Sapan Waterfall again - best butterfly found this time being Laotian Ace. Left around 10:30 for the long drive back to Chiang Mai, with a short stop at Tat Luang Waterfall, which proved quite good, with a number of puddling butterflies including Red-spot Sawtooth.

Species List

  Doi Phu Kha (inc. Bo Kluea) Count   Wiang Kosai Count
  Rufous-throated Partridge 2   Crested Serpent Eagle 1
  Silver Pheasant 1   Common Emerald Dove 1
  Grey Peacock-Pheasant 1   Banded Kingfisher 1
  Greater Coucal 2   Black-crested Bulbul 4
  Violet Cuckoo 1   Grey-eyed Bulbul 2
  Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo 2   Yellow-bellied Warbler 2
  Mountain Scops Owl 2   Dark-necked Tailorbird 1
  Collared Scops Owl 3   Pin-striped Tit-Babbler 2
  Asian Barred Owlet 1   Tickell's Blue Flycatcher 1
  House Swift 20   Crimson Sunbird 1
  Great Barbet 3      
  Golden-throated Barbet 3   Khun Nan Count
  Blue-throated Barbet 2   Indian Cuckoo 3
  Blue-eared Barbet 1   Silver-breasted Broadbill 2
  Rusty-naped Pitta 2   Large Woodshrike 1
  Common Iora 2   Black-naped Monarch 1
  Striated Bulbul 1   Common Green Magpie 3
  Red-whiskered Bulbul 3   Puff-throated Bulbul 3
  Flavescent Bulbul 15   Pin-striped Tit-Babbler 4
  Barn Swallow 4   Rufous-throated Fulvetta 2
  Mountain Tailorbird 4   Puff-throated Babbler 2
  Davison's Leaf Warbler 2   Buff-breasted Babbler 2
  Hill Prinia 2   Indochinese Yuhina 10
  Rufescent Prinia 3   Hill Blue Flycatcher 3
  White-browed Scimitar Babbler 2   Slaty-backed Forktail 1
  Red-billed Scimitar Babbler 2   Blue Whistling Thrush 2
  Golden Babbler 5      
  Yunnan Fulvetta 10      
  Collared Babbler 3      
  Puff-throated Babbler 1      
  Buff-breasted Babbler 2      
  Silver-eared Laughingthrush 2      
  Indochinese Yuhina 20      
  Dark-sided Thrush 2      
  Green Cochoa 1      
  Oriental Magpie-Robin 2      
  White-rumped Shama 2      
  White-gorgeted Flycatcher 2      
  Hill Blue Flycatcher 2      
  Large Niltava 2      
  Small Niltava 4      
  Lesser Shortwing 2      
  Black-throated Sunbird 2      
  Streaked Spiderhunter 1      
  White-rumped Munia 4