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2 - 17 Feb 2018
Overcast with rain early in the trip. Becoming clear and dry farther north. Unseasonably warm for the time of year. Temperatures ranged from 10°C to 34°C.
Pak Thale / Laem Phak Bia, Kaeng Krachan National Park, Bueng Boraphet, Mae Ping National Park, Chiang Dao Wildlife Sanctuary, Mae Taeng Irrigation Project, Doi Ang Khang, Doi Lang, Thaton, Doi Inthanon National Park and Doi Suthep-Pui National Park.

With Willie Sekula, Kim Garwood and Kristine Wallstrom. Despite everyone having previous experience birding Southeast Asia, the itinerary was based around a broad spectrum of sites and species rather than specific targets. Additionally, time was spent studying butterflies.

2 Feb. Met up at Bangkok airport by midday from where we headed, through unseasonably heavy rain, directly to Phetchaburi, dropped bags then headed to the coast at Laem Phak Bia. As usual here, following rain, access on the slippery mud tracks was limited, so we had to contend ourselves with whatever was accessible. In the last hour of light we found a few distant waders, including a couple of distant Spoon-billed Sandpiper, together with Chestnut Munia and several Plain-backed Sparrow in adjacent scrub.

3 Feb. Further overnight rain was not a good omen. An early return to Laem Phak Bia where this time we found a fair collection of waders, featuring Asian Dowitcher, Spoon-billed Sandpiper, Long-toed Stint, Terek Sandpiper, thousands of Great Knot and well over a hundred Nordmann's Greenshank. A nice start. We next tried Pak Thale, only to discover exceptionally high water, with the sea breaching the beach and flooding inland ponds, so little seen. After lunch we took the boat to the sand spit, where disappointingly no White-faced Plover, though Chinese Egret, Black-headed Gull and Malaysian Plover were present. Drove to Kaeng Krachan, arriving 18:00, where Collared Scops Owl and Large-tailed Nightjar heard in the grounds.

Long-toed Stint

Chinese Egret

Green-eared Barbet

Shikra

4 Feb. An early breakfast, then straight to the park where greeted by a close, vocal, Brown Boobook, but we were just too late for it to make a pre-dawn appearance. During the morning worked the entrance road then the stream sections of the lower elevation forest. Although we'd had half a mind to bird the upper slopes during the afternoon, this would have proved difficult due to the condition of the mountain road following two days of heavy rain. Due to the generally cool and damp conditions birding rather quiet for the time of year, and certainly butterfly numbers way down. Pick of the day probably Tickell's Brown Hornbill, Great Hornbill, Heart-spotted Woodpecker, Black-thighed Falconet, Black-and-yellow Broadbill and Swinhoe's Minivet.

5 Feb. With improving weather and the road drying, we headed to the top, arriving by 09:00. However, quiet in the extreme with hardly any birds noted - activity seemingly killed off by the recent rains and cool weather, even without birds flying overhead. A couple of distant Great Hornbill and a singing White-browed Shrike-babbler were about the only species from the viewpoint. In an endeavour to dig out a few species we tried various sunlit spots in the forest, looking for mixed flocks, but with very limited success. Late morning we took a slow drive down the mountain, spending time at several higher elevation spots, more notable for picking up a few leeches than birds. Late afternoon we worked the stream sections again. Species similar to yesterday.

Lesser Mouse-deer

A late morning return to the lodge where scanning the flowering trees located a single Spot-winged Starling - a much sought after species. Mid afternoon we visited Lung Sin's hide, with a good assortment of both mammals and birds. Especially noteworthy was the male Shikra hanging out just above the pond.

Spot-winged Starling

8 Feb. Although unplanned, recent reports of Bear's Pochard meant we changed the morning's birding to a boat trip on the lake. Fortunately the boatman was available and knew in which area to start looking, so following an hour by boat crossing the lake, we piled out and were able to scan through a distant group of ducks. Fortunately, over the next hour or so the light improved and the birds repositioned themselves in better light enabling us to find at least three Baer's Pochard, together with Eurasian Wigeon, Garganey, Glossy Ibis and Northern Shoveler. Flushed with success, returned to shore and headed north to Li by late afternoon.

Grey-headed Swamphen

Golden-fronted Leafbird

A full morning along the road to Thung Kik and the campsite beyond gave us Banded Bay Cuckoo, White-bellied Woodpecker, Great Slaty Woodpecker, fleeting views of Black-headed Woodpecker, Grey-headed Parakeet, Black-hooded Oriole, Rufous Treepie,

Grey-headed Parakeet

Streaked Wren-Babbler

White-banded Pierrot

10 Feb. A pre-breakfast sortie to the temple where in a couple of hours we recorded Streaked Wren-Babbler, Pin-tailed Green Pigeon and Mountain Imperial Pigeon. Mid morning spent at the Mueang Khong road checkpoint studying butterflies, after which we progressed higher on the road, in a long, but eventually successful, search for Bamboo Woodpecker. Late afternoon in the paddies behind town, with Glossy Ibis, Wire-tailed Swallow, Grey-headed Lapwing, Ruddy-breasted Crake and, a highlight, Greater Painted-snipe.

11 Feb. As we'd planned to be in Fang by evening, it was a toss-up between more effort at Chiang Dao, or passing Doi Ang Khang en route - the later being chosen. We started around the Chinese Cemetery, but found it not really productive, essentially due to the old pea farm opposite having recently been cleared of its scrub. Brown-breasted Bulbul was located after some searching, as were a pair of Spot-breasted Parrotbill, though they proved much less showy than usual. Passing overhead were Cook's Swift and Himalayan Swiftlet. A walk down the Arunothai road gave the usual plethora of leaf warblers, with Hume's Leaf Warbler, Yellow-browed Warbler, Claudia's Leaf Warbler, Davison's Leaf Warbler and Pallas's Leaf Warbler, together with Japanese Tit, Chestnut-vented Nuthatch, Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher and Mrs. Gould's Sunbird.

Lunch was taken at the restaurant within the King's Project, half of which was closed due to a royal visit. Fortunately the back of the kitchens was still accessible allowing us views of Black-breasted Thrush and Blue Whistling Thrush. A return visit to the cemetery produced Grey-backed Shrike and White-browed Laughingthrush before we headed late afternoon to Fang.

12 Feb. A full day on the western flank of Doi Lang, full of great birds and with so many highlights - several Himalayan Cutia, Giant Nuthatch, Mountain Bamboo Partridge, a large group of Fire-capped Tit, Mountain Hawk-Eagle, Golden-throated Barbet feeding at eye-level, Necklaced Woodpecker, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler and White-gorgeted Flycatcher to name a few.

13 Feb. As the eastern slope of Doi Lang offers a different selection of species to the drier west side, another full day in the field on this side. Logistically more difficult due to the continued non-repair of the road and restricted access. None the less the effort well worth while. On arrival at the lower checkpoint at 06:45 we were surprised to see that the official opening times have now changed to 08:00 - 17:00, placing even more of a squeeze on birding time, due to it taking almost an hour to drive up. However, the guys on the gate were in a good mood and after the pre-requisite paperwork we were on our way.

At our first stop, a few kilometres in, we found Grey-backed Shrike and Spot-winged Grosbeak - the later a great way to start to the day. Continuing higher, made several stops in evergreen forest as well as the open paddies at mid elevation. At the upper Border Police checkpoint, where the birds are accustomed to being fed on kitchen scraps and by visiting photographers, an excellent Chestnut Thrush as well as the highly prized Scarlet-faced Liocichla. Today it was possible to continue as far as the San Ju Viewpoint, where we'd hope to find Fire-tailed Sunbird, though no such luck, with only Mrs. Gould's Sunbird present. We also encountered Crested Finchbill in this open habitat. Mid afternoon near the camp produced Black-eared Shrike-babbler and Yellow-browed Tit. On the return journey another stop at the paddies gave us Grey-faced Buzzard and Eastern Buzzard circling together.

14 Feb. An early morning at Thaton paddies, where very disappointed to discover the previous bunting roost of the critically endangered Yellow-breasted Bunting had recently been bulldozed and raised to the ground - the price of progress in Thailand. However, in a couple of hours exploration of the adjacent area and a drive around other paddies we amassed a reasonable list including Chestnut-eared Bunting, Green Sandpiper, Pied Harrier. Watercock, Long-tailed Minivet, Singing Bush Lark and Lanceolated Warbler.

Golden-throated Barbet

Mountain Hawk-Eagle

Chestnut Thrush

Pied Harrier

Pygmy Cupwing

Blue Admiral

15 Feb. An early start to the summit, where surprisingly warm at 10°C. A sunrise scan of tree tops produced Ashy Wood Pigeon and Grey-sided Thrush plus the usual suspects of Mrs. Gould's Sunbird, Green-tailed Sunbird, Blyth's Leaf Warbler, Bar-throated Minla and Dark-backed Sibia. A short walk on the boardwalk gave several species missed from yesterday - Himalayan Bluetail, Yellow-bellied Fantail, Rufous-winged Fulvetta and Himalayan Shortwing, whilst during a coffee stop we added Buff-barred Warbler. We next headed into the forests at Km 34, finding Clicking Shrike-babbler, Hume's Treecreeper, Japanese Tit, Hume's Leaf Warbler and Bay Woodpecker. Following lunch tried Km 37 for Slaty-bellied Tesia, which although close, frustratingly failed to disclose itself. However, a pair of Eyebrowed Wren-Babbler were a very welcome addition to the list. After, visited Mae Pan on the reverse side of the mountain where we hoped to find Slaty-backed Forktail, a species that of late has become extremely hard to find on Inthanon. Today was no exception where, despite checking other undisturbed areas, we found only the stunning White-capped Redstart. Finished late afternoon around the second checkpoint with brief views of a disappearing Spectacled Barwing.

Three-spot Yamfly

17 Feb. A day devoted primarily to butterflies on Doi Suthep. During the last month or so the cool weather had kept butterfly numbers on the mountains low, but with the end of the cool season in sight we found a good number of interesting species including, Restricted Purple Sapphire, Truncate Imperial, Ambon Onyx, White Punch and Tri-spot Yamfly. Finished the day, and the trip, with a celebratory Mexican dinner in Chiang Mai.