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26 - 31 May 2013.
Surprisingly dry with occasional light rain showers. Warm to hot at Khao Yai, but hot and very humid in lowlands of Pang Sida.
Khao Yai National Park, Pang Sida National Park and Wat Phra Phutthabat Noi.

Five-bar Swordtail

With Steve Tibbett. With almost two years having passed since the previous Khao Yai visit, this trip targeted two of the most difficult Thai species known from the park - Eared Pitta and Austen's Brown Hornbill.

26 May. A long, 800 plus kilometre drive to Khao Yai, arriving late afternoon. Checked into accommodation near the park, after which we tried, from memory, to locate the bat cave along the Pak Chong road, failing miserably. Very quiet, with few birds, although Chestnut-capped Babbler of note.

Khao Yai Trails

A recent development at Khao Yai is that most of the trails now require a permit, with signs at the trail heads stating "No Entry Without Permit". Presumably this is a follow-on from the previous signs, that no one understood, stating "Activity Prohibited In This Area". According to park (mis)management the previous signs were to deter poachers from entering the forest. One assumes the new signs are designed to apprehend them when they apply for a permit....

The permits are available from the Visitor Centre and currently free of charge. It's rather vague whether a guide is required to walk the trails, and was offered at 500 Baht. However, we simply wrote our own names as the guide and were issued the permit without quibbles.

We next tried the Dong Tiew Trail, and almost immediately at the valley bottom heard an Eared Pitta. Over the next 15 minutes the bird called three times, but never approached closely, nor moved any vegetation - disappointing to say the least. Birds of note included Black-and-buff Woodpecker, Northern White-crowned Forktail and Banded Kingfisher.

Following lunch at the park headquarter kiosks, in the heat of the day, we ascended to the top of the Khao Kiew Radar Station road, birding the upper road and the boardwalk trail to Pha Diew Die viewpoint - Changeable Hawk-Eagle, Barred Cuckoo-Dove and several Blue Pitta calling. A late afternoon slow drive out of the park looking for Great Eared Nightjar, without success. Coming down the hill near the entrance, had close views of a single male Asian Elephant grazing right on the verge, apparently totally unconcerned by passing traffic.

In the heat of the day, we decided to try something different, and walked the river edge along the Pha Kluai Mai trail toward Orchid Waterfall. Hot and dead, save for a smart Blue-eared Kingfisher. The last two hours of the day again along the loop trail but no pittas. On the drive out met the same Asian Elephant walking down the road. This time however, it wasn't friendly, turned, didn't like our vehicle and charged from about 80 metres. Amazing how fast you can reverse a car up a steep windy mountain road when there's an elephant bearing down on you! Waited a while, for it to move off the road, and exited the park.

29 May. The same early start, but by now we'd had enough of impossible pittas and wanted to give Austen's Brown Hornbill a try. A landslide half way up the Radar Station road currently gives an excellent view across an huge expanse of lowland forest, so we thought an early morning scan might produce a fly-by hornbill. On the way up yet another Asian Elephant was grazing in the clearing and a Yellow-throated Marten crossed the road. We also disturbed a Malayan Night Heron right next to the road. Unfortunately only Oriental Pied Hornbill and Great Hornbill heard. Also a small group Hume's White-eye. Up to the Pha Diew Die viewpoint again for a quick scan, finding a Black Eagle, Wreathed Hornbill and a singing Blue Pitta.

Asian Elephant - Khao Kiew road

Black Eagle

Tired roads in Pang Sida

Black-and-buff Woodpecker

Around 11:00 left Khao Yai to head to Pang Sida where we hoped Eared Pitta might be more accommodating. A two hour drive, and checked into the Blue Mountain Resort which now appears to be the only accommodation outside park. Things have also changed inside the park with a new checkpoint/barrier controlling access to higher sections of the road to the upper viewpoint - sign the book, fill in car details and tell the rangers where you're going. We drove as far as the old Pong Krating Trail, which has now been renamed the Butapot Nature Trail.

Banded Swallowtail

Rufous Limestone Babbler